Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis) and Skin irritation: evidence and sources

Saponaria officinalis L. is a perennial plant from the Caryophyllaceae family whose various parts are used in traditional medicine as the treatment agent of skin diseases, blood purifier, diuretic, sudorific, and bile purifier. The cultivation system of hairy roots is a proper alternative for improving the valuable pharmaceutical compounds production compared to other in-vitro methods. The extensive nanotechnology applications in hairy roots cultivation is a sustainable production foundation to produce such active elements. In this study, the effect of various concentrations of titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO 2 NPs) (0, 10, 20, 30, 50 mg L -1 ) with two treatments (24 and 48 h) was examined on the growth level, antioxidant capacity, total phenol and flavonoid contents, antioxidant enzyme activities, certain polyphenol compounds and SO6 protein in hairy roots of S. officinalis. According to the results, the maximum (3.09 g) and minimum (0.96 g) fresh weight (FW) of hairy roots were observed in treated culture media with 10 and 20 mg L -1 of TiO 2 NPs after 24 and 48 h of exposure times, respectively. The highest rate of total phenol (9.79 mg GLA g -1 FW) and total flavonoid contents (1.06 mg QE g -1 FW) were obtained in the treated hairy roots with 50 and 30 mg L -1 of nano elicitor in 24 and 48 h of treatments, respectively. The maximum level of most polyphenols, such as rosmarinic acid, cinnamic acid, and rutin, was produced in 24 h of treatment. The use of TiO 2 NP for 48 h with 50 mg L -1 concentration showed the highest production level of SO6 protein.

Our skin is continuously exposed to different amphiphilic substances capable of interaction with its lipids and proteins. We describe the effect of a saponin-rich soapwort extract and of four commonly employed synthetic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) on different human skin models. Two human skin cell lines were employed: normal keratinocytes (HaCaT) and human melanoma cells (A375). The liposomes consisting of a dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3, mimicking the cell membrane of keratinocytes and melanoma cells were employed as the second model. Using dynamic light scattering (DLS), the particle size distribution of liposomes was analyzed before and after contact with the tested (bio)surfactants. The results, supplemented by the protein solubilization tests (albumin denaturation test, zein test) and oil emulsification capacity (using olive oil and engine oil), showed that the soapwort extract affects the skin models to a clearly different extent than any of the tested synthetic surfactants. Its protein and lipid solubilizing potential are much smaller than for the three anionic surfactants (SLS, ALS, SLES). In terms of protein solubilization potential, the soapwort extract is comparable to CAPB, which, however, is much harsher to lipids.